DMZ

So a couple of weeks ago, a bunch of us decided to finally get around to checking out the DMZ.

For those who don't know, the DMZ is the 4km wide strip of land that divides North Korea and South Korea. It's name is misleading because it is actually the most heavily militarized border in the world, with an insane amount of troops on either side ready to roll into battle should anything go awry. In order to get in on this action, we signed up for a USO tour which took us right to the frontlines.

The tour began at 7am bright and early. The bus ride to the DMZ was only about an hour or so, and we were entertained/kept awake by a little old Korean tour guide doing his best to explain the intricacies of North/South Korean relations.

We were forbidden from taking any pictures upon entering the DMZ. Once inside, we rolled in between minefields and alongside razor wire and fortified guard posts until we got to Camp Bonifas. We were given another history lesson of the DMZ, this time delivered with rote, military precision by a US soldier, which took only 2 minutes. After we signed our safety waivers, it was off to the JSA (Joint Security Area).

The Joint Security Area

The official border between North and South Korea within the DMZ is called the Military Demarcation Line. The Joint Security Area lays smack dab on top of this line, and it's where the two sides occasionally meet for talks or just stare at each other all day. This obviously was a very tense area so we were made to walk single file in two lines the entire time. Once we were actually at the border and in full view of the other side, North Korean guards whipped out their binoculars and started checking us out. It was pretty unnerving, but extremely fascinating. Jess was super jumpy at first and gave me the camera, but eventually she loosened up. I got chastised for stepping off the stairs to get a good shot.


Pay attention to what the US soldier is saying, it's really interesting.

A North Korean soldier checking us out.

A strict dress code applied. This is me looking sensible at the JSA.

We were then taken into one of the blue negotiating sheds to see where the North and South actually hold talks. This part was cool because since the shed straddled the demarcation line it allowed us to technically enter into North Korea! Inside there were two Republic of Korea soldiers (ROK soldiers) standing guard and looking bloody tough. We were allowed to take pictures but we couldn't touch or get behind them for any reason.

Guard number 1.

Guard number 2. The door behind him leads into North Korea. If you try to get behind him, he will Taekwondo your ass so hard.

Gord and Charlotte in North Korea.

Jess in North Korea.

The concrete slab marks the North/South border. I'm on the North side!

Once we left the JSA, we headed to an observatory. This part kind of sucked because it was a foggy day and we couldn't see anything or even take pictures. we did manage to see North Korea's propaganda village though complete with the world's tallest flagpole. I also got to see a ROK soldier make a Japanese tourist erase half of the photos he took without permission.

Terrible binoculars at the observatory.

The observatory again.

Next step was lunch and gift shopping. Jess and I got North Korean banknotes and blueberry wine.

Finally, we got to see the 3rd tunnel, one of the 4 tunnels that North Korea dug in order to sneak attack the south. It was a pretty grueling walk through a very narrow and damp tunnel. We wore helmets which came in handy since more than a few people spanked their heads on some low-hanging bars. They didn't allow pictures of the tunnel unfortunately, so sorry about that. After we got back out, we headed home.

So far, this trip has been one of the highlights of Korea for me. After seeing countless historical attractions, it was exciting to visit a place affected by contemporary politics. I think the tour guides try to scare you a little bit to make it more thrilling, but regardless, it was cool actually visiting a warzone and staring North Korea in the face. Plus it was refreshing to see foreign tourists abandon their usual jackassery for fear that it might get them shot, beaten or thrown in jail.

Videos of the kids

I told my parents I'd put up some more videos of the kids so here are 2 for your enjoyment!